Maybe an article comparing the merits of rebuilding vs. Could this possibly become a short Scoop article, or even a General Tech write-up, since the topic of window motor replacement anecdotally causes so much trouble so often, especially after the high cost and the amount of installation effort required. I'm afraid your good post will be lost in the haystack as well. I f they are not fitting to the armature curve they will draw more current that could cause them to burn out.Jim, this is a significantly misunderstood item and it is not presented by the Tbird retailers nor the manufacturers. Tbird wrote:If you buy new motors or repair your old ones make sure that you break the motor in prior to installing it connect them to a 12 V power source and run it each way for 10 to 15 minutes,this will help seat the new brushes on the armature as most brushes are not arced today. I just did this two weeks ago, also had to replace/fix 3 of the nylon gears, now all 4 windows are back in the car and functioning, yay! It's a lot easier than it reads me thinks :) Start tightening base up, and when getting snug, carefully remove wires holding brushes, letting them snap against the shaft. Lube the base and shaft, insert shaft through case and into socket. Sand out the socket in base as best you can.Ĭheck you brushes, springs tend to be rusted, replace or break off rusted part and stretch to length, make sure brushes push in/out of their boxes nice, sand lube as necessaryįor reassembly, push brushes in and hold in place by twisting thin wire around and sticking outside of case. Sand the base of the shaft (I stuck end of shaft into drill to mimic a lathe, and held emery cloth to it) Now pry back of motor off, feeding the wires through rubber grommets to pull back off further. Maybe use a piece of wood and/or mallet to prevent damaging the case. If this is the case, gently put shaft by screw gear into a vice and tap against the edge of motor case to break it loose. The most likely problem is the main shaft is rusted into the bushing at the back of the motor. Now you can twist the motor counter clockwise to remove from gears. Unscrew the two bolts at back of motor ( actually long bolts going through to front of motor, pulling front cap tight. You could also vice grip them together I've heard. I'll see if I can find a pic of what I mean. You can put a a long bolt in the hole in large plate to act as a stop. This lets you open the motor up.īefore taking motor apart you should secure the scissor arms, otherwise spring will cause it to violently fly apart. Pull window regulator out of door, wasn't as hard as I expected.Ĭut, peel off rubber coating all around, about 1/4 inch from from front, bit further from back. Front two were both seized up, here were my steps to bring them back to life: Since Ford used this same window roller in a gazillion different cars and trucks, most autoparts stores should carry it.įits: 1961/69 F100/1100 & N/NT/T500/1000 // 1961/74 Econoline // 1967/91 C Series Tilt Cab /// 1959/64 Galaxie // 1960/65 Falcon/Comet // 1962/65 Fairlane.įits: 1964/66 T-Bird // 1965/66 MUSTANG // 1966/77 Bronco.I just ended up rebuilding front two motors and servicing the rears. The window roller connects to the arm of the window regulator with a clip (comes with the roller), then fits into the channel the bottom edge of the glass sits in. Sometimes, you can get the glass back up by cranking the handle all the way down, then crank it all the way up. When this occurs (and this is very common), the glass falls down into the door.

how can I get it out and back on track?The glass did not fall off the track, what has happened is. During shipping or loading, the driver's side window fell off the track and is now stuck inside the door.

Replace window motor 65 thunderbird